Nablus in the West Bank in Palestine is known for a sweet called Kanafeh. I’d never tried it, and wanted to see more of the region, so the Englishman and I hopped in the car and made the 45 minute journey north to sample what is thought of as the best Kanafeh there is.
In Nablus we found a hot, thriving, busy, city center packed with bright shop fronts selling gold jewelry, hooka pipes, and cheap imports lining the traffic filled roads.
We came across street vendors selling fresh fruit off of colorful carts, grilling flatbread on hot metal stoves and cooking meat pies in outdoor wood fired stoves – one of which the Englishman happily ate for lunch.
We walked though mazes of covered markets selling everything from live chickens in cages to locally produced soap and olive oil, to freshly picked vine leaves ready for stuffing.
Next we met up with a friend in town who took us to a place called Abu Sair, which is thought to be the best Kanafeh purveyor in Nablus. The dish is made with a soft white cheese cooked with butter and soaked in sweet orange blossom syrup, before being topped with crushed pistachios.
Hot from the oven, I though it was delicious. It is a very rich dish though, so I’d suggest having it with tea. We also picked up an assortment of other delicious Palestinian sweets from the shop – very few of which made it through the drive home.
Here is a look at the bustling city.